The first main group of churches in Lalibela lies north of the River Jordan, with each church nestled within its own rock cradle, one behind the other. The original approach to these churches might have been from the river Jordan, leading up to Golgota-Oebre Sina (Mika’el) in the west. This remarkable complex can be divided into three smaller groups when viewed from east to west: Bet Medhane Alem to the east, the Bet Maryam group in the center, and the twin churches of Golgota and Debre Sina (Mika’el) with the Selassie Chapel in the west. While each sub-group has its own courtyard, the entire complex is encircled by a deep outer trench.
Bet Medhane Alem (House of the Redeemer of the World)
The most eastern church of this group, Bet Medhane Alem, is one of the largest rock-hewn churches in Lalibela. As you approach, you are greeted by a glimpse of the roof, adorned with relief crosses connected by blind arcades, and a solemn colonnade that surrounds the church. The church is carved out of tuff stone that shines with a characteristic deep pink color, which contrasts with the surrounding brownish-yellow earth and green trees. Standing in the courtyard, you face the grandeur of the church, measuring 33.7 meters in length, 23.7 meters in width, and 11.5 meters in height. It is a majestic structure, reminiscent of an ancient Greek temple with its pitched roof and external columns.
Some scholars suggest that Bet Medhane Alem may be modeled after the original Church of Our Lady of Zion at Axum, which was destroyed in the 16th century by the Muslim leader Ahmed Gran.
Bet Maryam (The House of Mary)
Among the churches in this group, Bet Maryam stands out as the most significant and beloved, not only by the Lalibela clergy but also by the many pilgrims who visit its courtyard on holy days. King Lalibela himself is said to have favored this church, attending mass there daily. A “box” that belonged to the royal family of Lalibela is still displayed in the western wall of the courtyard, opposite the main entrance.
The church’s exterior is relatively simple, with minimal decoration except for the roof, which is adorned with a relief cross. The church’s architecture includes horizontal mouldings running around the walls, a central pillar supporting the ceiling, and entrances in the Axumite style, with carved monkey-head corner posts. Inside, the church is richly decorated with paintings, and the layout features two flat-roofed aisles, a vaulted nave, and a frieze of blind windows framed by protruding beams. The central pillar, covered with a cloth, symbolizes the unity of faith and is said to have been touched by Christ during a vision experienced by King Lalibela. This pillar represents the connection between the past and the future of the world.
Bet Maskal (The House of the Cross)
The chapel of Bet Maskal is located in the northern wall of the Bet Maryam courtyard. It is a broad gallery, 11 meters in length and 3.4 meters in width, divided by a row of four pillars into two aisles. The chapel’s design features a frieze of arches and two windows, one with a swastika design pierced through a Greek cross and another with a Maltese cross motif. Light enters through the windows, casting a serene glow over the interior.
Bet Danaghel (The House of the Virgins or Martyrs)
Located to the south of the Bet Maryam courtyard, Bet Danaghel is a small chapel, measuring 8.6 meters in length and 3.6 meters in height. This chapel is associated with a fascinating legend. It is said to have been built in honor of maidens martyred under the reign of the Roman Emperor Julian the Apostate. This reflects Ethiopia’s early Christian history and its connection to the wider Christian world. Julian’s reign, marked by his attempts to reintroduce paganism and the martyrdom of Christians, forms the backdrop of this legend, and the memorial day for the maidens is observed on the 10th of Hedar (November) in the Ethiopian calendar.
Bet Debre Sina and Bet Golgota with the Selassie Chapel and the Tomb of Adam
The complex of Bet Debre Sina and Bet Golgota is one of the most mysterious in Lalibela. It houses the Selassie Chapel, a sacred shrine believed by some to contain the tomb of King Lalibela himself. The courtyard is entered from the south, leading past the hollowed block of the Tomb of Adam. The Selassie Chapel is an extremely rare site, rarely open even to priests, and it contains three monolithic altars. The single supporting pillar of the chapel rises more than five meters and connects with arched ribs running across the ceiling.
Bet Debre Sina (House of Mount Sinai)
Bet Debre Sina, also referred to as Bet Mika’el, is a semi-monolithic church measuring 9.5 by 8.5 meters. It has a raised chancel and a proper east-west orientation, with the holy of holies situated in the east. The church is carved into the rock and surrounded by a trench on three sides. The northern side of the church leads to Bet Golgota.
Bet Golgota (The House of Golgotha)
Next to Bet Debre Sina lies Bet Golgota, a twin church with a façade that is entirely worked on one side, the west face. It is said that three tabots (sacred arks) are kept in the eastern part of this church.
The Selassie Chapel (Chapel of Trinity)
The Selassie Chapel is accessed through a doorway from Bet Golgota. It is a sacred site that remains mostly closed to the public. The chapel’s single pillar, which supports the roof with its barrel vault in the rear and flat arch in the front, rises more than five meters. This pillar is the only structural element that connects the chapel to the ceiling, adding to its mysterious and revered status.
The Tomb of Adam
The Tomb of Adam is located in front of the western face of Bet Golgota. It is a large square block of stone, hollowed out to serve as the entrance to the first group of churches. The upper floor of the tomb houses a hermit’s cell. The tomb is decorated with a cross and features a harmonious cross-shaped opening in the eastern wall, which allows light to enter the cell.
