Approaching Lalibela from the south, you’ll encounter the Second Group of Churches, located south of the River Jordan. These structures, carved from red volcanic tuff, are separated from the surrounding plateau by an outer trench, 11 meters deep. A central trench further divides the area, creating a cone-shaped hill at its end. Originally, narrow subterranean passages connected the sanctuaries, with small, rough openings added later to link them to the outer trench. Simple log bridges now span these carefully planned courtyards.
The original purpose of this complex remains a mystery. While some, like Bet Emanuel and Bet Abba Libanos, were undoubtedly designed as churches, others might have served secular or royal functions during the Zagwe Dynasty. Over time, these structures became sanctuaries. The second group includes Bet Emanuel, Bet Mercurios, Bet Abba Libanos, the Chapel of Bet Lehem, and Bet Gabriel-Rufa’el.
Bet Emanuel (The House of Emanuel)
Art historians regard Bet Emanuel as the most architecturally impressive church in Lalibela. Its monolithic design, carved from an 18 x 12 x 12-meter block of rock, showcases the Axumite style, even as the floor and layout follow a traditional basilica plan oriented to the east. From above, its flat, pitched roof gleams within its rock cradle, emphasizing its grandeur.
Bet Mercurios (The House of Mercurios)
Bet Mercurios has a fascinating history tied to legend and Ethiopia’s early Christian connections with the Roman Empire. The Ethiopian synaxarium recounts tales of St. Mercurios, a martyr who defied Emperor Julian the Apostate and was condemned to execution.
The church’s unconventional design suggests it may not have been initially intended for worship. Some evidence, such as ankle shackles unearthed in nearby trenches, points to its possible use as a house of justice. The structure partially collapsed over time and was later consecrated as a church.
Bet Abba Libanos (The House of Abba Libanos)
Legend claims this church was miraculously constructed in one night by Lalibela’s wife, Maskal Kebra, with the help of angels. Dedicated to the revered monastic saint Abba Libanos, it embodies both spiritual devotion and mythical wonder.
Bet Lehem (The Chapel of Bethlehem)
Accessible via a 50-meter passageway starting from Bet Emanuel, Bet Lehem (or Bethlehem) is situated on a cone-shaped hill within the central trench. The spiral tunnel leading to the shrine ends in a low, round room supported by a central tree-trunk pillar.
The function of this enigmatic structure is unclear, and it is known by several names: “Hermit’s Cell of King Lalibela,” “The Bakery of Eucharistic Bread,” and “Stable of King Lalibela’s Horse.”
Bet Gabriel-Rufa’el (The House of Gabriel and Raphael)
Bet Gabriel-Rufa’el stands apart due to its labyrinthine design, which includes angular halls, pillars, pilasters, and two courtyards. Its monumental facade and the remains of built-up stone walls suggest a fortress-like royal residence from the Zagwe period, rather than a church.
Originally, access to this structure began at the eastern Bet Lehem Chapel through a massive gate in the rock. Today, visitors enter via a log bridge near Bet Emanuel. Its disorientation and unusual plan add to the intrigue of this majestic complex.
The Second Group of Churches in Lalibela reflects a rich blend of architectural innovation, religious devotion, and historical enigma, making it an essential part of exploring Ethiopia’s cultural heritage.
